What is 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid?

3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable, water- and oil-soluble derivative of pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that offers all of the primary benefits vitamin C is known for, such as brightening, wrinkle reduction, visible firming (through supporting healthy collagen levels), fading hyperpigmentation to restore a more even skin tone and offsetting numerous triggers of environmental damage.

As a modified and more stable version of pure vitamin C, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid must be converted to vitamin C within skin by sodium-dependent proteins. This process within skin's surface layers helps ensure skin benefits.

Due to the conversion to pure vitamin C being a slower process, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is considered a more tolerable form of vitamin C. However, like pure vitamin C, the ethyl form requires an acidic pH range (4–5.5) for optimum stability. This pH range is higher than what ascorbic acid needs for ideal stability, making 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid an intriguing alternative if your skin hasn't been able to tolerate higher-strength (10% and up) vitamin C (ascorbic acid) products.

Research has shown which non-irritating ingredients aid the penetration of this ingredient into skin's surface, and they include pentylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2 hexanediol, diisostearyl malate and various propylene glycol derivatives, although this list is not exhaustive.

Usage levels of 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid in skin care typically fall between 0.5–5%. Due to its stability, lesser amounts are needed compared with pure vitamin C. Levels above 5% may also be used, depending on desired benefits. Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples.

1. Inhibit the activity of tyrosinase by Cu2+ and block the formation of melanin;
2. It has a very effective whitening and freckle removal effect (when 2% is added);
3. It resists inflammation caused by sunlight and has strong antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects;
4. Improve dull skin and give skin elasticity; 5. Repair skin cell activity and promote collagen production.

3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid is widely applied in whitening and freckle products, anti-aging products, water, gelatin, essence, emulsion, skin care cream and so on.

1.3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid has the effect on relieving stresses and protecting the body against various stresses, including physical, mental, or emotional stress;
2. With the function of enhancing immunity, protecting the body from diseases such as cancer and diabetes;
3.3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid contains antioxidants, which protect cells against damage caused by free radicals;
4. 3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid is used to protect and support the immune system, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory, for preventing colds and upper respiratory infections;
5.3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid has the effect on lowering blood pressure, treating diabetes and protecting the liver.

Mildness: Non-photosensitive, non-cytotoxic (LD50 > 5000mg/kg), suitable for sensitive skin.

For pregnant women: No teratogenic risk (EU SCCS assessment safe concentration ≤3%).
Contraindications: Allergic to ethyl ether (rare, incidence < 0.01%).
Usage instructions: No tolerance needs to be established, but it is recommended to use every other day initially (some people may experience a slight fever).

Kameyama, K., et al. (1996)
Inhibitory effect of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (VC-PMG) and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid on melanogenesis in vitro and in vivo.
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(1), 29-33.
DOI: 10.1016/S0190-9622(96)90830-4

Lin, F. H., et al. (2005)
Ethyl ascorbate as a stable and safe alternative to ascorbic acid in topical formulations.
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 4(5), 598-604.
European Commission SCCS (2015)
Opinion on Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-Ethyl-l-Ascorbic Acid).
SCCS/1556/15.